Sewing-machine



Zilli; Z.

J. R. MOFFATT AND R. S. KELSO. SEWING MACHINE.

APPUCATIQN FILED FEB. 9. 1917.

Patented Mar.

6 SHEETS- WWI tto: nuff 8, 1921. SHEET 1,

1. R'. Muff/m AND R. s. KELso.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED EEB 9, |917'.

Patented Mar. s, 1921..

`6 SHEETS-SHEET 2- 1. R. MOFFATT AND R.S. KELSO.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 9,1917.

l Patented Mar. 8, 1921.

6 SHEETSv-SHEET 3.

J. R. MOF'FATT AND R` S. KELSO.

'SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED FEB. 9 |91?.

Patented Mar. 8, 1921.

s SHEETS-sum' 4.

l 1. R. Morm- AND R. s. KELSO.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 9| |917.

1 ,370,985. Panted Mal'. 8,1921.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5. I

I. II. MOFFIITT ANI) R. S. KELSO.

SEWING HACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 9, 1917. 1,370,985. Patented Mar. 8,1921.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 6.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES It. Morrafr'r ANI) RALPH s. KnLsO, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, AssIGNORs To UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, or CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application led February 9 To all whom t 'may concern.'

Be it known that we, JAMES R. Morra'r'r and RALPH S. KnLso, citizens of the United IStates, residing, respectively, at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to a sewing machine which is adapted to form overedge stitches.

Prior to our invention, nachines of this character have been designed and devices have also been applied to the machinD which devices cooperated with the stitch-torming elements to form at certain intervals picot loops from one oi the stitching threads. ein object of the present invention is to provide a machine of the above character wherein the devices for forming the picot loops mayT he rendered effective or ineffective at the will of the operator whereby the machine may he used either for plain overedge stitching or for forming overedge stitching with picot loops.

Another object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with means for rendering the devices which form the picot loops ineective at certain normal picot loop formations and effective at other picot loop format-ions for varying' the distance between the picot loops wit-hout varying the time ot the mechanismv or devices which form the picot loops.

A further object or" the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with a. pattern cam which cooperates with the picot loop forming devices for controlling the picot loop formations.

These and other objects will in part be obvious and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention Figure l is a front view of a sewing ma- Specification eI" Letters Patent.

, 1917. Serial No. 147,599.

machine with the picot loop forming mechanisvm applied thereto; v

111g. 3 is a view, partly in section and partly in front elevation, showing a portion of the work support, the needle, the looper spreader cooperating with the needle, and the piept forming finger, together with means for supporting and operating said finger, the finger being in ineffective position;

lf ig. el is a similar view, but showing the picot loop forming finger in effective position;

Fig'. 5 is a view, partly in section and partly in plan, showing the means for operating the picot loop cont-rolling cam;

Big. 6 is a sectional view on the line 6-6 of. Fig. 7;

Fig. 7 is a view, partly in section and partly in end elevation, showing the mechanism for actuating the picot forming loop;

l S is a vertical longitudinal sectional view through a portion of the mechanism for operating the picot loop forming finger, showing the means for rendering the same effective or ineffective, and when the picot loop forming device is in ineffective position;

.Figa 9 is a similar view, but when the picot loop forming device is in effective position;

Fig. 10 is a'sectional view on the line iO- 10 of Fig. T;

Fig. l1 is a'view, partly in section and partly in rear elevation, showing the picot loop forming device and the controlling mechanism therefor;

Fig. l2 is a view of a section of `fabric showing the picot loops formed'on the machine when said picot loop forming` device is `effective at each picot loop forming movement:

Fig, 13 is a ysimilar view, but showing the picot loops formed on the machine when the controlling cam shown is in action so as to render the picot loop forming device ineffective at three out of every four picot loop forming movements.

The invention is directed to a sewing machine which is provided with stitch forming elements cooperating to form overedge stitches. These stitching elements may be either all threaded elements or partly threaded so as to form overedge stitches from one, two, three threads or more. Cooperating with this overedge stitch forming mechagli saY

nism is a picot loop forming finger which is adapted at certain times to engage one of the stitching threads and hold or form a loop therein which projects from the normal overedge stitches, thus forming the Wellknown picot loop. This picot loop forming device may be timed so as to form a picot loop at any desired stitch intervals. The present machine is designed to form a picot loo at every third stitch.

`/operating with this picot loop forming mechanism is means for rendering the picot loop forming finger effective or ineifective at the will of the operator, and this permits the machine to be readily adapted for forming either plain over-edge stitches or overedge stitches with projecting picot loops in accordance with the character of the Work desired. The controlling means for the picot loop forming linger may also be placed under the control of a pattern cam which will render the picot loop forming device ineiiective at certain oi the picot loop torming movements and effective at others. Tn the present embodiment, the controlling cam causes this picot loop forming finger to be ineffective at three consecutive picotloop forming movements and eiiective at the fourth picot loop forming movement, and

so on, thus spacing the picot loops twelve stitches. This spacing can be readily varied'by varying the pattern cam so as to space the pieot loops at any desired distance which, of course, in the present embodiment oi? the invention must be a multiple of three stitches. A latch is also provided for rendering the picot loop forming device ineffective so, as above noted, the machine may be operated solely for forming normal overedge stitches.

Referring more in detail to the drawings p le have shown our invention applied to a sewing machine having the usual bed plate l, a standard 2, carrying an overhanging arm 3, in which a needle bar 4 reciprocates.

Y The needle is reciprocated by a needle lever 5 which is connected to the needle bar by a link 6. The needle lever is oscillated by a pitman 7 which cooperates With an eccenric on the main shaft 8.

Cooperating with the needle beneath the ivork support is a thread implement 9 which is in the form of a spreader adapted to engage the needle thread loop and carry the same to theedge oit the Work support l() Where the needle loop is entered by a looper ll. The looper is threaded and moves to a point ab ve the Work support Where its loop is positioned for the entrance of the needle 12 carried by the needle bar 4. The spreader 9 is carried by a support 13 which is pivoted at 14;, and said spreader support is oscil lated by a link 15 connected to a rock lever 16 which in turn isconnected to the needle lever extension 17. The looper ll is carried by a support i8, and this support is rocked by a link 19 connected to a crank at the end of the main'shaft 8. This overedge stitch forming mechanism is of the usual character and forms no part of the present invention per sc.

It Willbe readily understood that in place of the spreader 9, a threaded looper may be used, or in place ot the looper ll a second spreader may be used, or in place et the spreader 9 and looper 'll a single thread manipulating implement may be used. The essential feature consists in forming stitches vvhieh are carried about the edge of the fabric and knoivn as overedge stitches.

Cooperating With this overedge stitclr forming m chanism is a picot loop forming device 'which consists of a linger 20 clamped in a supporting collar 2l Which in turn is clamped to a rod 2Q. This tinger 2O is held in the supporting collar 2l by a set-screiv Z3 which permits the linger to be adjusted in the supporting collar. The rod 22 is mounted in pivoted sleeve 24. This sleeve is pivoted to swing about an axis which lies in a plane at right angles to the longitudinal axis oi the rod 22. The sleeve 2st has an arm which is pivoted at Q6 to an Veccentric strap 27 which cooperates with an eccentric 28.V The rod 22 carries a cross head Q9. This cross head has a sliding engagement with bolt 30 Which is adjustably secured to the eccentric strap 27. The eccentric 28 is mounted to rotate on a supporting stud 3l. A gear 32 is fixed to the eccentric by means oi a screw 33, and this gear 32 meshes With a. gear 34 on the main shaft The gears 32 and 34 are so proportioned that the gear 32 will be rotated once for every three rotations of the shaft 8. As the eccentric :2S rotates, it Will cause the rod 22 carrying the loop forming nger 20 to move endivise in the sleeve 24 and also yanse the sleeve 24 to oscillate in a vertical plane. This gives more or less oi an elliptical movement to the end of thelinger 20.

Then the parts are positioned as shown in Figs. fl and 9, the picot loop forming linger 2O engages one of the stitching threads and holds the thread in loop formation, Which loopV is oi suiiicient dimensions so that, when the overedge stitching threads are drawn down, this loop projects beyond the edge oi' the stitching threads. This operation oif the picot loop forming linger is not new With ns and forms no part of the present invention per se. With the gears formed as described above, this picot loop forming linger Will form a picot loop at every third stitch, as the stitching elements operate to form astitch at each rotation ofthe main shaft, and the eccentric controlling the picot loop forming finger rotates once for every three rotations ofthe main shaft. Y

lli)

The present invention is directed particularly to the means for rendering this picot loop forming finger effective or ineffective at will or automatically through the control of a patterning mechanism.

The rod 22 is capable of a limited oscillation about its longitudinal axis in the sleeve 24. The cross head 29 is cut-away at and 36 to permit this rod to have a lim ited oscillation. The rod is oscillated by means of a controlling bracket 37 in which an arm 3S feely moves in a vertical plane. This arm 38 is clamped to the rod 22 by means of a screw 39. The bracket 37 is carried by a rod 40 which slides in a sleeve 4l clamped by screws 42 to a standard 43 which also carries the supporting stud 3l. This standard is secured to the bed of the machine by a screw 44 (see Fig. 6). At the end ofthe rod 40 there is a collar 45 which is clamped to the rod by means of a clamping screw 46. A link 47 engages a pivot screw 48 carried by this collar 45. This link at its other end Ais pivoted to a bolt 49 which is adjustably connected to the lever 50. Said lever is formed with a slot 51 along which the bolt may be adjusted. The link 47 is made in two sections, one of which is slotted and lioined to the other by means of screws 52. This enables the length of the link to be adjusted. The lever is fulcrumed at 53 on a lug 54 attached to the standard 2 of the machine. The lever 50 carries a roller which is adapted to coperate with a pattern cam 56 fixed to a disk 57 carried by a vertical shaft 58. This vertical shaft is provided with a gear 59 which meshes with a worm gear 60 on a countershaft. The countershaft carries a small gear 6l which meshes with a gear 62 on the main shaft 8.

The pattern cam 56 is secured to the disk by a clamping screw 63 which permits the pattern cam to he readily removed, and another cam to be substituted therefor. A spring 64 is secured at one end to the lever 50 and at its other end to a lug 65, and this spring normally presses the roller 55 in a direction toward the periphery of the pattern cam 56. This pattern cam has four separate concentric surfaces. The concentric surfaces 66 are opposed and are of greater radius than the concentric surfaces 67 which are likewise opposed. lVhen the roller is on the concentric portion 67, then the parts are in the position shown in all of thefigures of the drawings, except Figs. 4 and 9. This positions the picot loop forming linger so that in its elliptical path of tradif'el it will not engage the stitching threads. In other words, it is ineffective although it` goes through its same cycle of movements as when it is effective.

Vhen this roller 55 engages the concentric `portion 66 ofthe pattern cam, then the link Y47 will move the rod 40 endwise to the position shown in Figs. 4 and 9. This rocks the rod 22 so as to lower the path of travel of the picot loop forming finger 20 and brings it to a position where it will engage one of the stitching threads and form a picot loop. The shaft carrying the pattern cam is timed so that it makes one rotation to every twenty-four rotations of the main shaft. As a result, while the roller 55 is on the section 66, the picot loop forming finger will be in effective position and sufficient time to form one picot loop. As a matter of fact, the roller 55 will be on this section substantially throughout the forming of three stitches or three rotations of the main shaft and during this time one picot .loop will be formed.

l/Vhile the concentric portion 67 is in engagement with the roller 55, the main shaft will make nine rotations and the picot loop forming linger will be operated three times, but each of these operations will be ineffective as the picot loop forming finger is out of range of the stitching threads. The concentric portion 66 at the opposite side then operates upon the roller 55 to form another picot loop, and in this way three of the op# erations of the picot loop forming finger will be ineffective, which is followed by one effective operation of the picot loop forming finger and so on, thus forming a picot loop at every twelfth stitch. It will be obvious that the cam 56 may be changed so as to vary the spacing of the picot loops, but so long as the picot loop forming mechanism operates at every third stitch, these variations will necessarily be multiples of three stitches.

Mounted on the lever 50 is a latch 69. The wire forming the spring 64 is bent to form a yielding holding finger 70 which cooperates with this latch'. Said finger has a shoulder 71 formed therein, and the latch carries a pin 72. When the latch is positioned as shown in Fig. 2, the yielding finger 70 will hold it in this position, but it willbe readily seen that the latch may be turned in a clockwise direction to carry the pin 72 over the shoulder 7l, and then the end of the latch will engage the face 73 on the standard, and when in this position thepicot loop forming finger will be positioned forl making picot loops. In other words, when the latch 69 is in engagement with the face 7 3 on the standard the link 47 will assume the same position as though the roller 55 engaged the face 66 of the cam 56 and thus position the picot loop forming linger so Ythat it will engage the stitching threads at each operation thereof and form a picot loop. When it is desired to use the machine without forming picot loops, the cam 56 may be removed and the spring 64 willhold the picot loop forming finger raised from operative engagement with` the stitching.

llO

threads.V Thus, it will be apparent that the machine may be readily converted at the will of the operator from a normal overedge forming machine to a picot loop forming machine. It willV also be obvious that a pattern control mechanism may be used for spacing the picot loops in accordance with the control pattern cam.

`l/Vhile we* have described the picot loops as actuallyV formed from the stitching threads, it will be obvious that from certain aspects of the invention the picot loops may be formed from a thread laid in and concatenated with the stitching threads. The essential features so far as this invention is concerned Vconsist'in the means for making the picot loops regardless as to how they are made, and the rendering of that means ineffectivey at certain intervals or continuously for the purpose stated.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and the arrangement of parts may be made when desired without departing from the spirit of this invention as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed as new is.:-

l. A sewing machine including in combi-- nation an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming finger adapted to engage one of the stitching threads for holding the same to form a picot loop, means for operating said picot loop forming finger and means for varying the relative position of said picot loop forming finger and the overedge stitch forming mechanism wherebyv said finger may be rendered effective or ineffective.

2. A sewing machine including in combination an overedgeV stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming finger adapted to engage one of the stitching threads for holding the same to form a picot loop, means for actuating said picot loop forming finger and means for automatically varying the actuating position of said picot loopforming finger whereby the same' is rendered effective or ineffective at certain intervals. 3. sewing machine including in combi nation an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming finger adapted to engage one of the stitching threads for holding the same to form a picot loop, means for operating said picot loop forming finger and devices including a pattern cam for shifting the relative position of said picot loopforming finger and the overedge stitch forming mechanism whereby said-finger may be rendered effective or ineffective inaccordance with the shape of the pattern cam.

4. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming finger adapted to for operating said picot loop forming finger, a spring operated device for normally holding saidl picot loop forming finger in inefiective position and means for shifting said Vpicot loop forming finger effective, said last named means including a pattern cam.

(5. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming` finger adapted to engage one of the stitching threads for holding the same to form a picot loop, means for operating said picot loopv forming finger, a spring operated deviceV for normally holding said picot loop forming finger in ineffective position and means for shifting said device against the action of the spring to render the picot loopV forming finger effective, said last mentioned meansv including a latch for holding said device against the action of the spring for causing said picot loop forming finger to form picot loops at cach operation thereof.

7. A sewing` machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming` finger adapted to engage one ofthe stitchingy threads for holding the same to form a picot loop,.means for operating said picot loop forming finger, spring actuated devices for shifting the operative position of said picot loop forming finger whereby the same is rendered ineffective and a detachable pattern cam for moving `said devices against the action of the spring for rendering said picot loop forming finger effective.

8. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming finger, a rod on which said finger is mounted, a sleeve in which said rod is mounted, means coperating with said sleeve and said rod formoving said picot loop forming finger whereby the same isadapted to engage one of the stitching threads and hold the same to form picot loops, means for oscillating the rod in said sleeve for varying the-operating position of the picot loop forming finger to render the same effective or ineffective.

9. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge Stitch forming mechanism, a picotloop forming finger, a rod onv which said linger is mounted', aV sleeve in lOO which said rod is mounted, means coperating with said sleeve and said rod for moving said picot loop forming linger whereby the same is adapted to engage one ol' the stitching threads and hold the same to form picot loops, means for oscillating the rod in said sleeve lor varyin the operating position of the picot loop lorming linger to ren` der the same effective o1' ineffective, said last named means including a pattern cam whereby the picot loop forming linger is rendered ellective at certain intervals only.

10. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mechanism, a picot loop forming linger, a. rod on which Said linger is mounted, a sleeve in which said rod is mounted, means coperating with said sleeve and said rod for moving said picot loop forming linger whereby the same is adapted to engage one of the stitching threads and hold the same to form picot loops, means for oscillating the rod in said sleeve for varying the operating position ol the picot loop forming linger to render the same ellective or inellective, Said last named means including a spring for normally shifting the rod to render the picot loop forming linger ineffective and devices lor moving the rod against the action of the spring for rendering it effective at certain intervals.

11. A sewing machine including in combination an overedge stitch forming mecha! nism, a picot loop forming linger, a rod on which said linger is mounted, a sleeve in which said rod is mounted, means coperating with said sleeve and said rod for moving said picot loop forming linger whereby the same is adapted to engage one of the stitching threads and hold the same to form picot loops, means lor oscillating the rod in said sleeve lor varying the operating position of the picot loop forming linger to render the same ellective or inell'ective, said last named means including a spring normally shifting said rod to render the picot loop forming linger ineffective and a latch controlled at will for shifting said devices against the action of the spring for rendering the picot loop forming linger continuously eli'ective.

In testimony whereof, we aliix our signatures in the presence of two witnesses.

JAMES R. MOFFATT. RALPH S. KELSO. Witnesses S. GEORGE TATE, STEDMAN THOMAS. 

